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I usually train on the track Go Lego!

What is happening when the train is not going to go around the track? Can you make a light rail or different locomotive round the loop? If so, then you probably have pushed the boundaries with the train as heavy as it will not. BrickTrainShop examines these limits to help you pick and choose where to focus their efforts to make their trains.

Let's start with a little perspective, take a look back to most 9v line and you will see light rail sets two to four cars, and many times cars have bogies. A good example is in the beginning of the line in 1992. Carrying the burden of N Railway (set of 4563, this issue) had three cars each with only two axles. This tradition continues until the remote control Load luxury trains (September 7898), published in 2006. Another trick you see in the 9v train sets is the fact that often make use of panels and windows to increase the volume while maintaining the low weight (eg 4559 and 4561 games.) LEGO train motors and controllers were made for these light rail. The logical choice, since the only sets came with a small oval track and many children would join her, so trains were short and the engines need not be powerful.

A notable exception to this trend is the Super Chief of locomotives and cars (games 10020, 10022, 10025) released in 2002. Compared with the 9v train that came before them, weigh a ton. After these sets came out we have created a small design on the corner of the store. While the floors looked at, the Super Chief left clear that there were: slow and fast uphill down. For pulling five cars and two locomotives that we needed two engines and seemed to put pressure on their boundaries.

Since then we have to pull very long and heavy trains using the 9v system. Our personal record is 51 cars and four locomotives bogies unequal NMRA track in 2007. There are many challenges to the implementation of such long lines, the first is simply to have enough cars and track to do so. But on the way we had to overcome many other challenges that are likely to encounter with only six or seven cars. In fact, you only can work comfortably trains with 6 or 7 cars.

DYES IN THE LINES

No matter what the size of the provision is, the weight will always be one of its greatest concerns. If the surface is even slightly uneven, as it was in my apartment, the motors have to throw the weight of the train up the hill. So in general, the lighter you can make the train cars, their engines are happier. Even if you are able to find a completely flat surface, the weight still comes to play to increase the friction and inertia, we're going to come at a time (no pun). Maintaining proper weight is always a good starting point. But in general, realism more you strive for, the higher your car. As a result, personally I prefer the car six wide for operational reasons, but we drool at the detail you can put in 8 wide. Sometimes you can discover the tricks that give you the punishment of realism with little or no weight, it simply becomes a factor in their design process. Some MOC of my first cars, and as a result of my linear thinking process of the sides, ended up being composed of alternating rows of plates and bricks. Needless to say, the density of the plates is greater than the bricks and much larger than the panels, so that these cars are heavy original. Later, when we wanted a bit more wagons, was redone the design and construction of the wall panels. New cars are about two-thirds the weight of the originals, but look almost identical from the exterior. While the aesthetics of balance, weight and functionality is hard to beat the train basis for its relationship between weight and longitudinal strength. Friction increases with weight and crops in several places in a LEGO train – most importantly, fixed wheel, and rotation in the second bogie. Looking through the files Lugnet, it is clear that were not only
one having problems with the weight of the car Super Chief. The wheel sets (part 2878) are designed to have a needle bearing, mounted only at points at the end of the shaft and therefore minimize the friction surface. In a discussion initiated by Reinhard "Ben" Beneke, AFOLs various quickly found a design flaw in the wheel support. Apparently, at some point a third party manufacturer of the holder of the gear wheel has been redesigned without first talking to LEGO, as a result, the flange of the wheel was rubbing on the 10 and the two positions. Earlier versions of the wheel support is measured at 0.9 mm thick but by 2002 had grown by 1.1 mm thick and thesethicker holders were the source of the problem. Reportedly
the design problem has been solved, but even in a brand new LEGO brick may have been manufactured since many years ago.

As is evident, the wheel of the train-set has evolved since 1992 in a small but important. Another big change came in 2006. Before that year, a metal shaft passes through the plastic wheels and provided the needle in the needle bearing. Therefore the exact position of the wheels on the axle was variable. With these older tractors may have to adjust the space to ensure that the wheels do not rub on the bracket of the wheel when turning. If you experience problems, you may also want to check the separation roller to ensure that all wheel and rides on the track, especially if your design includes switches or crossings. The easiest way to check is to simply put this kit in the most restrictive type of track you have, ie crossovers, and switches, if any, otherwise, straight
the track is fine. Since 2006, LEGO removed the wheels to "float" on axis. Now the metal stops on the back of the hub and the needle is molded into the plastic on the front wheel. This change should eliminate the problems positioning on the shaft, but the plastic in plastic is likely to have different results taking over your life than old-style metal on plastic. If you have old or new sets of wheels, inevitably, the needle bearing wears out the plastic in the wheel support. As this wear and tear, the tabs the wheels are more likely to begin to rub on the wheel support. So occasionally flipping over cars, give each set of wheels around to see how will continue to rotate. A new round of good team will continue to rotate for up to 10 seconds. But even after a short duration use of a wheel spin good set is reduced to a few seconds. If you receive almost no residual effect, then you know it's time to repair or replace the kit. And, of course, maintain an ear to the sounds that could be easily fixed by changing the rubbing wheel position. If you have a slow wheel-set, not throw it away. As of this writing, may bike rack purchase the black individual in the United States from the line of Pick-A-Brick. But even if you do nothing to slow axis, it can always be worn under of cars in a train shorter than the friction is less likely to be a limiting factor for static display in a car that is not executed, or even parts detailing how Train around the building or store the payload in a punt. Some builders finish with the owner of wheels and trucks that are building more aesthetically appropriate the individual passenger or a locomotive. From everything I've read and seen first hand information about the truck as usual, the friction is greater than the LEGO wheel-sets. I found a simple bogie consists of two running gear set, a 2×6 plate, a plate of bogies, and the buffer is hard to beat for the longitudinal resistance (although its use may mean putting form above function). However, experiment and see what works best for you. Returning to the whole wagon train, the trains slow corners LEGO down just as real trains slow down. There are two forces acting on a railway car on a curve, the first impulse is to try to force the car straight ahead, pressing against the outside rail that is forcing the cars in a new direction. The second force is the friction on the bogie plates as they rotate. In my experiments nonscientists I can not say which of these forces dominates, but both seem to contribute. Apart from making the trains lighter, there is little that can be done by impulse, as must turn at some point. In fact, sometimes the drive will help your engine last dirty places on the track. To reduce the impact of the friction plate of the bogie want the contact between the truck and car body rotation as smooth as possible, for example, using the bogie plate (part 4092) or tiles for contact. Based on my experience we have found that the LEGO trains slower "S" –
curves which would be the same number of sections curve of all bending in one direction. Since track LEGO set radius curves, the friction of rotation only occurs at the intersection of route and curve of a straight path, track or curve in opposite directions. Reducing the number of these transitions also reduce friction. For both the momentum and friction plate bogies, can reduce the impact of the curves on the train simply reducing the number of curves of your train might be at any given time, the spacing of the curves from afar, with long lines in the middle. If you think your path is causing major slowdowns, a good rule of thumb for shorter trains is not having the angle between the front and rear of the train exceeds 180 degrees at any time, and longer (heavier) trains, try to get up to 90 degrees. If you suspect the weight is dragging down the train to try to make sure you're always pulling the train from the front rather than pushing from the center or back. If the game is not stretched in front, all the cars in front of an engine thrust will crumble, creating extra drag, as they are bound by the rails to move forward. While friction is your enemy up cars, can be your friend in the locomotive. Weight gain in the engine keeps the wheels spinning. A purist can use the LEGO train weight (Part 73 090) or just build their engines as solid as possible. Or if you do not mind LEGO not hide in your model, you can use coins or other metal as ballast (Shown here in the U.S. I prefer nickels from pennies of copper is more likely to oxidize). But be careful not to do so since the ballast weight remains the engine has to pull.

Friction can also be found in some unexpected places. The buffer beam train with plow (Part 45 708) introduced in the year 2003 has very narrow space with the track. In a perfectly flat design is not a problem. But as soon as you come across an uneven track, the lower plow can drag on top of the rails. At best, they simply lead to a sharp squeal, but it can also lead to a derailment. After have put all the various weights and friction, once we rode the train together, perhaps the most critical point in its heavy train is in the back of the last locomotive. Like the real trains, the longitudinal force on the drawbar is the largest here. Similarly, with a long tail, have cars and locomotives with longitudinal strength to withstand those forces. While the front cars need to be strong, you can still car use weaker, but will have to walking toward the rear of the train, a technique also used by real railroads. One of the advantages of LEGO trains is the fact that it is so easy to change bogies out (unless they have been carefully integrated into the model). So you can motorize a few cars and engines in all that distribute a train to reduce longitudinal forces. For example, return to the Super Chief for a second, I often wondered if the additional space provided for under 10 025 are provided so you can insert another engine. In any case, the distribution of motors throughout the train is added risk that if the locomotive derailed, the rear of the train will continue pushing track cars. This may not be important if the design is on the ground but could be disastrous if your hugs follow the edge of a table. In the end, everything reduces the power and the need for power to the motor to move the train. If you have problems, first check to make sure there are no breaks in continuity either due to a disconnected, switches are aligned incorrectly, or two separate track segments. The controller is supposed to put out a fixed voltage, Vcontroller. Each segment of the current track has to travel before reaching the engine will reduce the voltage seen by the motor. There is a voltage drop over a tiny segment single track, with a greater loss at the junction between two segments of the track, and a net resistance per segment, Rtrack_segment. The greater the number of segments track between the controller and the train, the greater the loss of power. If the voltage at the motor is too small, the motor will not move. After the segments track No, you can reach the engine is more or less: pmotor Vcontroller = 2 ⋅ ⋅ Rmotor Rmotor Rtrack segment N + _ () 2 is, roughly the power falls inversely proportional to the square of the number of road segments between the motor and the power connection to the track, ie 1/n2. Be sure to see things from the perspective of the electrons. If a switch is aligned in the opposite direction then current can not flow that direction around the loop. A switch with divergent to the power connection can make a long distance that electricity must travel before reaching the engine, but has to run all the way around the net to get the train to lose power with each segment of track. So be sure to check that all power switches are aligned properly.

Does its heavy train stop spots? Can I improve performance on these points for the power connection moving closer to them? If so, it is likely to lose too much power over the track. When I have to choose, I try to put the power connector on the uphill side of the provision, to ensure the lowest loss of energy when the train need it most. If you have a loop large enough, could not be simply too much of a power drop to overcome through conventional methods. You can do some quick experiments to determine where problems lie. While the addition of a lighthouse on the locomotive is extra power loss engine is a great indicator of whether the motor is getting power and intensity of light will show to what extent the power. Then makes a single locomotive to go all the way around the track? Then you should have continuity. Did they do at very low speeds? If not, you may have dirt track (which damn inertia helped you move to higher speeds). A pencil eraser should help clear the track, but be sure to clean the right side of the lane. Motors 9v are somewhat rare compared with the model railway engines. Do not take power from the top of the lane, leading from inside the lane. From the shape of the wheel motor, the most critical point is the corner in towards the top of the railing. I found a single sweep with a draft through this corner each rail is generally enough to clean the track. If the draft makes a lot of dust and dung, follow with a soft cloth for cleaning. On a side note, also I found that my locomotives with two engines in a base plate looks dirty track faster than two engines under separate locomotives. Assuming that is not simply a small sample size, my guess is that this problem arises because when two engines are under a single board is rigidly together and fight each itself only when the slack in the couplings between two locomotives with an engine each.

BURSTING OUT OF THE LINES

So Now the discussion has been easy. But it was not able to pull this train of 50 cars without bending the rules, or <gasp> literally cut corners. Any deviation from LEGO guidelines do so at their own risk, and most of what follows it deviates from the guidelines of LEGO. So have a proper trial and precautions. First, we will return to the wheel holder. If you have a new set of wheels dragged from the first day or an old man who is exhausted, the AFOLs also devised a solution, ie, using a cutter to notch the plastic wheels would otherwise rub on the wheel holder. I've used this trick in most of my rolling stock. If the train starts too heavy, the magnets can separate LEGO. Assuming you are running in a loop and not catch it in time, the front can train crashed into the rear. You can completely remove the magnets and the use of trucks towing bars sharing (for example, the center of the car TTX, set 10 170), but the train assembly becomes much more difficult. Another alternative is to use rare earth magnets. In Lugnet, Mathew Clayson suggested using D61 3 / 8 "x 1 / 16" K & J Magnetics. Taking note that "this size works very well, and not too fragile. I've often inserted between the magnets magnets LEGO series of cars adjacent to strengthen coupling. By placing the engines in front of the train the forces to leave if you are away from the locomotives, because there are fewer cars and less pulling the coupling. So I just need to strengthen the links on the front of the train, for example, my car had 50 trains between these magnets each car for about the first 30 cars. Rumors of other AFOL glued together to paste the magnets are floating around, but "glue" is a four letter word. Now back to the equation of power. There are other ways to keep n small without reducing the size of the loop of the track. If the problem is but one long loop of track, and not a heavy train, two or more power connectors (part 5306) on the same controller to opposite ends of the loop can reduce n in the denominator of the equation and reduce the power lost track. But care must be taken to obtain the polarity between the two power connections. Using multiple power connections also helps maintain the high speed train more uniform throughout the cycle. When the train is very heavy or have more than two engines, a single controller, you probably can not supply enough energy. So that instead of using multiple power connectors one driver, two (or more) separate controllers on a single track will increase the power available. But becomes much more important to have proper polarity with power connectors and all drivers must be set to the same level and the same direction. The four railway traction motors 50 my car had a single engine and the power was supplied by two controllers connected on opposite sides of the provision. While train made around the net on their own, I had a successful operation even when cut back to 47 cars and a locomotive fifth said. In between, I added a driver of third parties to supply enough power for the motors. The train ran for 47 cars per hour before he was replaced with another train.

About the Author

Son of 2, Brother of 1, Father of 6, Friend to all, Bother to Many.  Born and raised all over the world I now reside in Southern California near my true love LEGOLAND.  My wife and I own and operate several Lego Store’s in which we sell all things Lego, BrickTrainShop.com, HalfPriceLegos.com, and WholesaleLegos.com.  Stop by our store anytime or drop us a line customerservice@bricktrainshop.com

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